Start Date: 28 Mar 2022 – Reached Lukla
Reached Everest Base Camp: 5th April 2022.
Everest Final Summit Push; 1 AM on 12th April 2022 from Base Camp.
Everest Summit Push from Camp4: 8 PM 14th April 2022
Everest Summit: 4:47 AM, 15th May 2022
In Memory and Honor of:
Sqn. Ldr. Priye Sharma | Maj. Mukesh Chaurasia | Maj. Sandeep Mahapatra | Mountaineer Kalpana Dash
The Everest dream started with the plan to put the name of Odisha, India on top of seven summits on seven continents science 2011. After doing Aconcagua in Dec 2021 – Jan 2022, I started preparing for Everest. Joined the team from Malaysia via friend Ravichandram who had done Everest 2 times and this was his 3rd time.
Day1, March 26 – Arrived at Kathmandu, and met Ravi and Ellan (Age 64), the other teammates and the Expedition Company 14 Peaks and our main Sherpa Mnigma. I wish when I am 64, I am as fit as Mr. Ellan.
Day2, March 27 – Gear check and organize any missing stuff and pack and get ready for the Expedition.
Day3, March 28 – Early morning departure from hotel for Lukla flight. But for bad weather we could only arrive at Lukla in the afternoon at 2pm. Flying to Lukla at 2860m (9380ft) with views of many 8000m mountains and the landing at the scariest and highest airport in Nepal is an experience in itself. From Lukla we trekked 6.2KM to Phakding (2610m, 8560ft) a beautiful hill village, and stayed the night there.
Day4, March 29 – We hiked 7.5KM from Phakding to the famous Namche Bazaar at 3440m (11300 ft) . The most interesting portions of the trekking are the hanging bridges across Kumbhu River.
Day5, March 30 – we stayed at Namche Bazaar for an extra day to acclimatize. We visited the Tenjing Musium to look at Sherpas Mountaineering History. From there we hiked to Everest View Point. From there you get an amazing view of Everest and all nearby mountains. I prayed to Sagarmatha aka Everest for a successful summit. Must have the banana cake at Namche Bakery.
Day6, March 31 – We moved 9.2KM to Tengboche at 3870m (12690ft) , the famous Buddhist Monastery. I got my blessings from the Monks for a successful summit. I lit 11 candle attended the Buddhist Ceremony for 2 hours. The Monk tied a protection thread, for safe return. That give the spiritual energy needed for such a tough expedition.
Day7, April 1 – With great views of Ama Dablam all the way we trekked 9.1KM to Dingboche at 4410m (14470ft). Once you reach there you get amazing views of Mt Tabuche, Lotshe and Makalu. We gained a lot of height, so we needed 2 days here.
Day8, April 2 – Went for an acclimatization hike to Mt. Nangkartshang 5083m(16676ft) with amazing views of the Kumbhu Valley, especially Ama Dablam and Island Peak in backdrop of mighty Mt Makalu.
Day9, April 3 – After a good rest day we started our 8.5KM trek to Labuche at 6119m(16210ft). This is where we get to see the start of the Khumbu Glacier. On the way we prayed at the cemetery of all the Sherpas and Climbers who have lost their life on Mt Everest. I prayed to all of them for a safe return.
Day10, April 4 – The trekking continued for 4.5KM to Gorak Shep at 5140m(16870ft), the launching point for Everest Base Camp. We stayed here 1 extra day to hike Mt Kala Patthar 5645m (18519ft), where I got the first 270 degrees views of Everest and all nearby mountains, the most Prominent being Mt Pumori. And got the first clear view of Mt Everest.
Day11, April 5 – We trekked 3.5KM from Gorak Shep to Everest Base Camp at 5400m (17600 ft). The camp was getting ready. The first sight of Khumbu Icefall Maze was a feeling of how in the name of God I will climb this.
Day12, April 6 – Slept 1 night in my tent, saw all the arrangements. Organized all the heavy equipment for the Expedition and then prepared for the Island Peak trip. It was a long 14KM walk back to Dingboche in one day. Reached there in the evening and was very tired. Caution – Do not try it, take it slow and steady.
Day13, April 7 – It was a small 3 hour hike to Chukhung at 4730m(15520ft), a beautiful village leading to the Makalu Valley.
Day14, April 8 – One more good day to Hike to Island Peak Base Camp, with an amazing view to Lothse East, Ama Dablam and Makalu.
Day15, April 9, 2022 – Island Peak – After an early dinner we planned an alpine start at 12 AM for the Island Peak Climb summit at 6189m (20305ft). As expected it was a tough training ground for what we are going to face on Everest. Lots of snow, ice and rock climbing. It was a lot of hard work to reach the 6000m Peak Summit. With many climbers on one rope, got the real feel of a traffic jam. On the summit you get a grand 360′ view of Makalu, Lotshe, Baruntse, and Ama Dablam.
Day16, April 10 – Went back to Dingboche for rest. While talking to the hotel owner, he was offering a nice package to one more 6000m Peak. It was ambitious for me to join my friend to climb Lobuche Peak.
Day17, April 11 – We trekked to Lobuche Base Camp, a long and very tough hike, considering we did a 6000m Peak the other day. Caution – After every 6000m you need a week break. Do not push so hard.
Day18, April 12, 2022- Lobuche Peak – Again I did an Alpine Start at 1 AM. Lobuche Peak at 6119m (20075ft) is the official training ground for Everest. But my bad I planned to climb two 6000m peaks in 3 days. I was exhausted climbing Labuche. I almost gave up, and my friend was even worse. But slowly and steadily I made it to the summit with views of every mountain in the Khumbu Valley. The worst was we had to hike back to Tukla for rest. I was very slow and had almost no energy.
Day 19, April 13 – After a restful night at Tukla, I started my hike back to Everest base camp. I was super tired and started having a runny nose. I had to stop at Gorak Shep as it was evening and it started snowing a lot.
Day 20, April 14 – I was sick, started having a dreadful cough like my Covid sick days. Very slowly I reached the base Camp back. The moment the Expedition Manager saw me, he sent me to a camp doctor. The doctor did not find any major illness so suggested home remedies.
Day 21, April 15 – I rested in my tent and expected the cough and sickness to subside.
Day 22, April 16 – I tried all kinds of yoga, breathing exercises and home remedies, but my health kept worsening.
Day 23, April 17 – I felt a little good and went for a small hike into Khumbu Icefall. I could hardly walk and could see my Everest dreams vanishing. After coming back, everyone at camo notices my swollen face, and suggests that I go back. The camp manager forced me to go down to Debuche at 12000ft for recovery.
Day 24, April 18 – While everyone was preparing for rotation training to Camp1, I started my journey back towards Debuche. I took a halt at Tukla. The tea house took good care of me and Organized a place for me at Debuche the following day.
Day 25, April 19 – I reached Debuche which is so full of oxygen with greenery all around and nice weather.
Day 26, April 20 – The tea house was good with a heated bed and nice food. In 2 days I felt really good.
Day 27, April 21 – With renewed confidence I started climbing back towards basecamp. By the time I reached Pambuche the cough and energy less feeling were back. I made a firm decision that I must go back to Kathmandu and see a doctor. In one day I hiked 25KM back to Lukla with a determination that I must take care of the sickness and try to climb Everest again.
Day 28, April 22 – I took a flight back to Kathmandu and went to a high altitude doctor. They did all kinds of tests and came to the conclusion that it is not that serious, but a form of lung infection which they call Kumbhu Cough. You just have to live with it, there is no cure. He advised me for 4 days of medical and rest in Kathmandu.
Day 28, April 23 – I rested fully at the hotel and took medication to increase the cough as prescribed by the doctor.
Day 29, April 24 – I rested and took Ayurvedic Massage. I went to an Ayurvedic store to get cough remedies and bought Cloves & Haritaki raw herbs as my wife suggested.
Day 30, April 25 – I felt really good. Went for a 10KM and it started building my confidence back.
Day 31, April 26 – I again went for a 15KM run and was very happy that now I can manage heavy physical activity even with Kumbhu Cough. I saw the doctor again and he helped with the plan to manage the Expedition with the cough. I also learned how to mix modern medicine and Ayurveda to manage heavy physical activity at 50% of my capacity. Getting slower was the answer.
Day 32, April 27 – I took the flight back to Lukla, and started my hike back to Basecamp. But this time at a slower pace, but consistent. I took a new tougher route to build my confidence further. I reached Kumjung by evening. It was a 15KM hike, at 3790m(12430ft).
Day 33, April 28 – Kumjung was a good stay with much less traffic. From there I went to Machermo at 4470m. On the way you get amazing views of the Himalayas at the Mong LA Pass.
Day 34, April 29 – The best part of the trip so far was Gokyo Lake at a height of 5,357m. What a beautiful lake formation among the amazing mountains in the base of Mt Choyo. After the scenic walk, I continued towards Dragnag village at 4700m(15420ft)
Day35, April 30 – After a good rest at Dragnag with the best dal bhat meal in the valley, I started preparing to cross Chola Pass at 5420m(17782ft). Started around 6am, but by the time I reached the base of the pass, a snow storm arrived. It was a total whiteout, with tons of snow making the steep climb dangerous. Again the mantra of slow, steady, be safe rules worked, and I crossed Chola Pass and reached Dzonglha which is at 4830m(14864ft).
Day36, May 1 – It was one the most difficult crossing days on Chola Pass because of the severe snow storm. Global warming can bring winter to summer. Continued my hike towards Everest Base Camp with additional confidence of crossing Chola Pass in extreme condition. By the time I reached Gorak Shep the weather even got worse, there was 6+ inches of snow. Strong wind stopped me from going any further. The Kumbh Cough was still bothering, but by now I knew how to live with it. Thanks to Ayurveda.
Day37, May 2 – Finally I was able to reach basecamp for the 2nd innings. All the camp was excited that I have come back with renewed energy.
Day38, May 3 – It was still bad weather and all snow like winter in summer days at basecamp. All my other climber friends have gone for rotation training to Camp2. Basecamp was relatively empty, which gave me a lot of time to rest and start reading Buddhist teaching. It did transform me, such simple but life changing principles.
Day39, May 4 – Another rest day at base camp. Although I was getting impatient about not being at Camp2 or Camp3. Buddhism kept me busy. I was so humble, single minded, positive thinking and spiritual, that only good feelings about summit day had occupied me.
Day40, May 5 – Weather cleared up, I went for a small hike to Gorak Shep and back, to continue the tempo and be in shape. Then I decided to go for my acclimatization training to camp3. In the night at 2 pm was the plan for crossing Khumbu Icefall.
Day41, May 6 – As planned, I started the climb in the Maze of Khumbu Icefall for the first time. So much excitement climbing the steep walls and so much composure to cross the crevasses on ladders. It all went well and I reached Camp1. Stayed at Camp1 that night at a height of 6065m (19900ft). The mantra was – Go slow, use only 50% of potential, save your $$$ for the end.
Day42, May 7 – Next Day we started a little late for camp2 as it was nearby. At an elevation of 6400m and 3KM away was easy trekking. But once the sun hits the snow, it turns the ice fields into a hot pressure cooker. I was sweating head to toe in the heavy mountaineering suit. After reaching the nice dining place at Camp2, with hot juice and food it was a respite. This is the first time I met my personal sherpa, Mnigma Dendi Sherpa. He was busy fixing tents, food and oxygen for me at camp3 and camp4. It was a delight to see him with a lot of assurance that everything was ready. I rested and Mnigma started planning for a push to camp3 training hike.
Day43, May 8 – Most Climbers go towards Camp3 for a feel of the route, but stop at the ice wall, and return to camp2. I decided to go all the way to Camp3 at 7162m(23500ft) to have an on-hand experience of the tough route. This is the highest I have ever been in my life. The ice face of Lothse is almost vertical and Camp3 is cut out of it. After a non-stop use of ascender for 6 hours I reached camp3, fully exhausted. My sherpa brother went ahead and cooked nice soup and hot juice. We spent an hour acclimatizing and then returned to Camp2. I was all excited after reaching Camp3. I called the camp manager, saying I am in good shape, ready for the summit in the next 2 days. No need to return to Basecamp. But looking at my poor health a week back, he was very strict. He said no, you have to go down and rest for 3days.
Day44, May 9 – The next day when many Climbers were coming up for summit push, I was going down to basecamp, crossing them one by one. I felt sad about my illness. But I kept saying thank you God, what happened, happens for good. My time will come, no worries, be happy and keep calm. I went down the Khumbu Icefall from Camp2 and reached basecamp by lunch. Good to see 4 more climbers there.
Day45, May 10 – The remaining Climbers went up for the summit that night, so I was left alone. In a way it was so nice, I could order any food I want to eat, and do anything I like. I stuck to dal bhat for all meals. I kept reading Buddhism and writing about it, and started meditation and Yoga.
Day46, May 11 – I could restore the internet. The first thing was to look for a great weather window, and it happened to be the 15th of May. Thanks to modern technology and the new weather station up at 27000ft, the predictions are so accurate. With good weather for the next few days I was excited and started preparing for the final summit push. Mostly in silent mode and tons of uplifting music. By evening I was all ready and Mnigma, my sherpa brother, was excited too. We decided to wake up at 12AM and push directly for camp2 at 1AM. By evening my cough and fever kind of came back. I started chewing Haritaki and Cloves and Ginger all night. Also I knew when I put my mountaineering boots on I would go into trance, no illness can stop me. It happened, exactly that way.
Day47, May 12 – Camp2 – After missing 2 window days, 12th and 14th, I was looking at the best weather day as 15th May. I started planning for the summit push on that day. With an alpine start at 1AM, again went for the Khumbu Icefall with confidence. The cough and fever came back that morning, but I was doing pranayam, meditation and chanting. I ignored all of the health problems, took Haritaki and Cloves as remedies and pushed onto Camp2 in 7 hours. Rested there for the night and prepared myself for the next day.
Day48, May 13 – Camp3 The Lhotse Face – Did an early 5 AM start for camp3, to avoid sunshine and ice-sun oven. This Lhotse face is all ice and steep and continuous climb. It is tough. It was good that I had gone up to Camp3 in training so each step was familiar and I was confident. My Sherpa Mingma is a good cook. He prepared a delicious dinner for an early sleep. Sleeping has been a problem for the last 2 days, but I made sure I won’t get out of my sleeping bag and give full rest to the body. And the MIRACLE was when I woke up at Camp3 absolutely all my sickness, cough, fever, running nose had vanished.
Day49, May 14 – Camp4, SouthCol, The Death Zone – Although we did an early start, so did the other 30 odd Climbers. The progress to Camp4 at 7925m(26000ft) was very slow, and once the sun was up, it was like climbing in a white oven, sweating from head to toe. On top of that all returning summiters made it into a traffic jam and had to wait for hours to cross them. It was tougher than I expected but the chatting of Jai Mata Di, Jai Jagannath and Jai Sagarmatha made it easier. Slowly and steadily was the mantra. Also better to save energy for the bigger challenge in the night. We reached camp4 called the SouthCol around 3 PM. It is also known as the start of the death zone, with very low oxygen in the air. There was quite a hustle for tents as many returning summiter from 14th May were also fighting for it. After one hour of struggling we could grab a partially broken tent. After a good meal which included Mingma’s spicy Sattu with Noodle and mine puffed rice with nuts, we took a 3 hour rest. We started preparing for the Everest summit push around 6.30 PM. By 8 PM we were ready, and when I came out of the tent I saw a bee line of 30 odd climbers already lined up. I knew the moment of life had come.
Day50, May 15, 2022 – The D Day – The Everest Summit Day – We started at 8 PM on 14th May 2022. After overtaking a few Climbers and by doing so going out of breath, I decided to take it slow. Mantra – One Step, One Breath, One Tiny Break. By 12:30 we reached the spot called Balcony. I had food, water and I changed the oxygen bottle. The false south summit gave an impression that the top is so near by. But once you reach the beautiful south summit, you realize there are 10 more false summits like this. After it I further slowed down, as we realized we may reach the actual summit in the dark, if we continue at the current speed.
Hilary steps are scary as it is thin and huge drops on both sides. Any wrong step could take you back to Camp2 in a few minutes. And on top of that the presence of honorable dead bodies of climbers from the past makes it more scary. Looking at them makes you pray a lot. In a way it is good for this section as not only we have to wait for other climbers, you get time to rest. On top every step was Jai Mata Di, Jai Jagannath. And I was more and more spiritual. I reached the last stretch of the summit around 4:15 AM. I could see the orange sky forming behind Mt. Kanchenjunga. I removed my backpack and the oxygen and sat there in trance realizing I have reached the top of the world. Official time to reach the Everest summit was 4:48 AM, May 15th 2022. I sent the message to my parents and family. I waited for the sun to rise and the crowd in front of me to clear the summit flag post. Around 4:52 I hoisted the Indian Flag and started shouting Bharat Mata Ki Jai, O Ya Ya my hunter squadron war cry. Few minutes later I hoisted the Shree Lord Jagannath Flag with the Odia Paika Banner. We took some pictures and a few 360 videos of all the peaks around. The feeling was like, I was in heaven, close to where GOD lives. It was a cocktail of emotions – Breathtaking, Spiritual, Humble, Loving, Proud, Happy, Crying, and Sacred.
After 40 minutes when I put my oxygen mask back on, I realized it was all frozen, quite scary. It took five minutes to pressure fill my hot breath to free it up. Thanks to Mnigma, he is always there to help and calm you down. One more daring moment, as I took the risk of being without Oxygen on top of Mt. Everest for 40 minutes.
On our way back I was even slower, as I was extra careful to reach back safely to my family. On Hillary Steps on a rocky section lots of rocks were falling on us, but my sherpa was protecting me from it. In the process his down suit tore apart in many places. Hats off to him.
[Note: After coming back to base camp I bought him a new down suit. He was so delighted and happy and emotional about the gift. I felt really happy about him.]
Reached Camp4 around 8 AM, rested for an hour. I drank soup and had snacks. Packed everything, even all thrash and extra stuff to bring down. Again it was tough climbing down directly to Camp2 with heavy load. By 12 noon, it was so hot, and I was so tired from the summit push, I felt like giving up. But I never stopped although it was very slow. Reached down to Camp3 at 2PM, took a rest and drank soup and hot water. Packed more stuff to bring down to Camp2.
The sun that day was very hot, and started melting the Lothse Icewall rapidly. On one of the vertical sections when I was climbing down, all the ice screws came off the wall, and I was dangling on the rope with minimum safety. Any fall would have taken me into deep crevasse. Thanks to the daring of my Sperpa Brother Mnigma, he jumped ahead, almost fell into the crevasse, fixed one of the screws, guided me down, and saved my life. With his help I could come down to Camp2 safely. But I was shaken with fear of death and injury for the first time. They correctly say it, coming down is always dangerous. Reached Camp2 around 6 PM. What a lifetime endeavor with 22 hours of hard work to reach the top of the world and return. Rested in Camp2 that night, it was cold and very tiring.
Day51, May 16: I woke up early all excited to go back to base camp. Packed more stuff at Cam2, and the backpack was very heavy. I gave away all the food and snacks to fellow Sherpas who were going up, so that I have to carry less weight. Slow and steady and safely climbed down the dreadful Khumbu Glacier with utmost carefulness. I reached the base camp right when lunch was served at 1 PM. What a relief and what a great welcome by the whole camp. Night we had a huge party with music, dance and wine with all the summiters. We deserved one.
Day52, May 17: Back to Kathmandu – It took 4 more days to reach the hotel.