Sidharth Routray summited Mt Elbrus at 9 AM on 3rd April 2023

Mt Elbrus, Russia
Height 5642 meters / 18510 ft
The tallest mountain in the European Continent

Sidharth Routray summited Mt Elbrus at 9 AM on 3rd May 2023

24th April – The Start
Reached the nearest airport to Mt Elbrus call Mineralnye Vody and rested in a hotel near the airport.

25th April – Day2
The guide name Sasha came to pick me up and other 2 climbers. One from Kazakhstan and one from Russia. After meet and greet we moved the ski town called Terskol. The 4 hour drive through hillscapes reminded of Kashmir. We walked around the town and rested.

26th April – Day3
We did a long hike to the Treskol Observatory at 10000 ft. Amazing views of Mt. Elbrus and the valley with a magnificent waterfall.

27th April – Day4
We moved up to a camp at 9000ft and hiked up to 12000 ft. All of sudden it was all snow and ice followed by snow storm. We dared the weather and continued our training.

28th April – Day5
We again hiked up to 13000 ft in the snow storm and rested at 9000ft

29th April – Day6
We move to the high camp at 12500 ft. We hiked up to 14000 for practice. The continued snow storm and extreme cold conditions with limited visibility made everything 3 times more difficult. The climber from Kazakhstan got sick and had to quit.

30th April – Day7
We did one more hike to 15000 ft and rested.

1st May – Day8
We wake around 11 PM and started our summit push as the weather was predicted to be good. It was nice in the night but as we started moving up it started getting worse. We were 1 km away from the summit it became dangerous. The snow storm for last 4 days had already made us weak. After a 15 hour ordeal we decided life is more important, so let’s go back to camp safely. We could reach a height of 17600ft. I was told it was a easy expedition. I underestimated it and was at a complete shock that Mt Elbrus was so angry on me. 3 feet of snow, windy, cold up to -35 was a test unfolded to make you humble.

2nd May – Day9
I pursued the guide to try again on 3rd, after a good day of rest. The other climber from Russia was exhausted so he did not like the plan and went back. I was praying all the time for a miracle on 3rd. Around evening things started to change, and I went and prayed to Mt Elbrus. By night moon was shining on the camp. No doubt there is such great spiritual power in the mountains.

3rd May – The D Day
The same routine of a summit day with an alpine start around midnight. With no snowing and clear but cold night we reached the saddle at 7 am. This is where we abandoned last time for zero visibility. 4 hours earlier than last time. The red rays of sunrise was making Mt Elbrus orangish. From here the technical section start as it’s very steep. Thanks to the extra cold our movement was safer as the snow was harder. I wore extra layers unlike last time to sustain the -35”c.
We reached the top at 9 AM exactly as planned. The moment you are humble your plans starts working. And also risk taking and living on the edge has its own reward. In general it’s not advisable to try summit again in a failed expedition. But I did and with spiritual power I was awarded the best views and best weather window.

It was magical on the top as every mountain you crossed on the way up looks like godly characters amongst clouds.